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Corrective Make Up for a Younger, Radiant Look

Posted by Pamela Hackeman on November 10, 2012 at 8:20 AM

One of my main objectives as an esthetician and make up artist is to provide a way for men and women to look and feel their best.  I found out at a young age that my compassion for others led me to investigate ways to help others heal themselves. I studied Meditation, Hatha Yoga, Chi Kung, Shiatsu/Acupressure, Diet and Herbal Medicine, among other modalities.  In my search, I found that self esteem was a primary component in one's health and well being, along with a spiritual path. I was always intrigued how different people presented themselves, either confident or not, and how their appearance seemed to effect their success or failure in life.

A friend introduced a book to me when I was working on a movie set, as a make up artist,  called "Psycho-Cybernetics" by Maxwell Maltz.  It was one of those life-changing books that clarified my own observations, but worded so perfectly! The author was a plastic surgeon that noticed many of his clients, even after he would perform surgery to "fix" the physical "problem", still had not changed their self - image, and consequently nothing changed in their lives.  He realized that everyone had the opportunity to change their own self perception by visualization, and change their life as well, to become a success, by visualizing that success, in a very detailed "photographic" way.

This is my intention, to give you an actual, visual, picture of your own beauty, through natural, corrective skin care and make up. It is my calling.

I can give you a brief summary of what a corrective make up entails, and you can try this yourself at home. If you prefer, you can also make an appointment with me for a one on one consultation and lesson.

First, it is important that you use good skincare appropriate for your skin. I see a lot of women just buying cheap drugstore brands based on advertising, but not necessarily the best for their skin. Personally, I spare no expense when it comes to my skin care and make up. I feel that I deserve to use good quality products, just as I deserve to eat good quality food. Cheaping out on these things is cheating yourself. 

Secondly, the foundation you use should match your decollete, not your face, to avoid "the floating head" look. Your face should not be too light, pink, or orange. Most people have at least a little olive in their skin, even though some pink may be mixed in.  At MUD we teach how to custom match any skin tone. Try the color on your jawline, but look to see if if matches the neckline or decollete. The texture is important too.  Too heavy looks cakey, but make sure there is adequate coverage, so unwanted blemishes are diminished. If your skin has a lot of texture, ie; wrinkles, scars, etc. use a liquid base or mix a cream with a primer to create a sheer look.

I like cream cheek color,(especially "Sweet Cheeks" by MUD) it can look so much more natural than powder. Too much powder will age you by settling into creases, use a light touch with a light brush. (I like the large white fan brush #510 by MUD for both face powder and powder blush for this reason) remember to keep the color on the apples of the cheeks and in line with the middle of the ear, and no lower than the corner of the mouth. For powder blush, I like 'Warm Bisque", "Glow", and "Rose Beige" for cheek contour on fair skin.

For eyes, use softer natural colors, like Chamois, Pink Grapefruit, Taupe, Espresso and Graphite for both eyeshadow and eye liner.  Too dark, and strong,harsh colors are usually aging if you're over 45. You may deepen colors for evening, though, for dim lighting situations. Always lift the corners of the eyes by not taking eyeshadow or eyeliner past the outer corner, sweeping the color up towards the outer brow at an angle softly. ( It's easier to show this than to explain, but you can watch my Youtube videos, or come in for a personal lesson)

Eyebrows should have a nice balanced arch, not too steep of an angle toward your nose (this can make you look angry), or too round (this can make you look like a clown, or surprised) and don't bring the outer brow too slanted down (this can make you look tired, sad or old). 

Your lips need some definition as you age, but softly, so use a natural color lipliner and don't overdraw too much. Lifting the corners can be tricky, if you try too hard you'll get "joker mouth". But a subtle lift at the corner gives a pleasant smile to your look, and you can add subtle volume to the lips as well. (Again, a picture is worth a thousand words, so look at my photos or videos, if you want to see it).

Lashes should be curled to open your eyes, and everyone has a favorite mascara, one that doesn't clump, but adds depth and dimension to the eyes. I like YSL and Lancome, but I found an inexpensive one from Mexico that is surprisingly good, given to me as a gift from one of my students from Mexico, a while back.  Now I sell it at my salon!

I would love to meet you and work with you to create your best image, through excellent skin care and flattering make up that you can do yourself at home.

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